Iyini indwangu ye-jacquard?

Incazelo yendwangu ye-jacquard

Indwangu ye-Jacquard eluka ngomshini esebenzisa izintambo ezinemibala emibili noma ngaphezulu kweluka ngokuqondile amaphethini ayinkimbinkimbi endwangu, futhi indwangu ekhiqiziwe inamaphethini anemibala noma imiklamo.Indwangu ye-Jacquard ihlukile ohlelweni lokukhiqiza izindwangu eziphrintiwe, okubandakanya ukuthunga kuqala, bese i-logo yengezwa.

Umlando wezindwangu ze-jacquard

Umanduleli we i-jacquardindwangu

Umanduleli wendwangu ye-jacquard i-Brocade, indwangu kasilika eyaqalwa e-Zhou Dynasty yaseShayina (ekhulwini le-10 kuya kwelesi-2 ngaphambi kwepaki), enamaphethini anemibala namakhono avuthiwe.Phakathi nalesi sikhathi, ukukhiqizwa kwezindwangu zikasilika kwakugcinwa kuyimfihlo amaShayina, futhi kwakungekho ulwazi lomphakathi.Obukhosini bakwa-Han (iminyaka engu-95 epaki), i-Chinese Brocade yethula iPheresiya (manje eyi-Iran) kanye ne-Daqin (uMbuso WaseRoma wasendulo) ngoMgwaqo Kasilika.

Ngu Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design MuseumCC0, Link

I-Han Brocade: Izinkanyezi ezinhlanu ezivela empumalanga ukuze kuzuze i-China

Izazi-mlando zaseByzantium ziye zathola ukuthi kusukela ngekhulu le-4 kuya kwelesi-6, ukukhiqizwa kwe-tapestry kusilika bekungasekho, nelineni noboya kuyizindwangu eziyinhloko.Kwakungekhulu le-6 lapho izindela ezimbili zaletha imfihlo ye-sericulture - ukukhiqizwa kukasilika - kumbusi waseByzantine.Ngenxa yalokho, amasiko aseNtshonalanga afunda indlela yokuzalanisa, ukufuya nokondla imibungu kasilika.Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, i-Byzantium yaba umkhiqizi omkhulu kunabo bonke futhi ophakathi kakhulu emazweni aseNtshonalanga, ikhiqiza amaphethini kasilika ahlukahlukene, okuhlanganisa ama-brocade, amadamaski, ama-brocatelles, nezindwangu ezifana ne-tapestry.

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Ngesikhathi seRenaissance, inkimbinkimbi yokuhlobisa indwangu kasilika yase-Italy yanda (okuthiwa kuye kwathuthukiswa izindwangu zesilika), futhi ubunkimbinkimbi kanye nezinga eliphezulu lezindwangu zikasilika zikanokusho kwenza i-Italy yaba umkhiqizi wendwangu kasilika ebaluleke kakhulu futhi enhle kunazo zonke eYurophu.

Ukusungulwa kwendwangu ye-jacquard

Ngaphambi kokusungulwa kwe-Jacquard loom, i-Brocade yayidla isikhathi ukukhiqiza ngenxa yokuhlobisa kwendwangu eyinkimbinkimbi.Ngenxa yalokho, lezi zindwangu zazimba eqolo futhi zitholakala ezicukuthwaneni nabacebile kuphela.

Ngo-1804 uJoseph Marie Jacquard wasungula 'umshini we-Jacquard,' idivayisi efakwe i-loom eyenza kube lula ukwakhiwa kwezindwangu ezinephethini eyinkimbinkimbi njenge-Brocade, i-damask, ne-matelassé."Uchungechunge lwamakhadi lulawula umshini."amakhadi amaningi ashaywayo ahlanganiswe ndawonye ngokulandelana okuqhubekayo.Izimbobo eziningi zibhotshozwa ekhadini ngalinye, nekhadi elilodwa eliphelele elihambisana nomugqa owodwa wokuklama.Lo mshini cishe ungenye yezindlela ezintsha zokuluka ezibucayi, njengoba ukuchithwa kwe-Jacquard kwenza kwaba nokwenzeka ukukhiqizwa okuzenzakalelayo kwezinhlobonhlobo ezingenamkhawulo zokuluka iphethini eyinkimbinkimbi.

Ngu-CC BY-SA 4.0,Isixhumanisi

Ukusungulwa kwe-Jacquard loom kube negalelo elikhulu embonini yendwangu.Inqubo ye-Jacquard kanye nokunamathiselwe kwe-loom edingekayo kuqanjwe ngomsunguli wabo.Igama elithi 'jacquard' alicacisiwe noma alikhawulelwe kunoma iyiphi i-loom ethile kodwa libhekisela kumshini wokulawula owengeziwe owenza iphethini ngokuzenzakalelayo.Izindwangu ezikhiqizwa yilolu hlobo lwe-loom zingabizwa ngokuthi 'izindwangu ze-jacquard.Ukusungulwa komshini we-jacquard kwandisa kakhulu ukukhishwa kwezindwangu ze-jacquard.Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, izindwangu ze-jacquard ziye zasondela ekuphileni kwabantu abavamile.

Izindwangu zeJacquard namuhla

Izindwangu zeJacquard zishintshe kakhulu phakathi neminyaka.Ngokusungulwa kwekhompuyutha, i-Jacquard loom yasuka ekusebenziseni uchungechunge lwamakhadi abhoboziwe.Ngokuphambene, izinsimbi ze-Jacquard zisebenza ngezinhlelo zekhompyutha.Lezi zindwangu ezithuthukisiwe zibizwa ngokuthi i-Jacquard looms yekhompyutha.Umklami udinga kuphela ukuqedela ukwakheka kwephethini yendwangu ngokusebenzisa isofthiwe futhi enze uhlelo oluhambisanayo lokusebenza kwe-loom ngokusebenzisa ikhompuyutha.Umshini we-jacquard wekhompyutha ungaqeda ukukhiqizwa.Abantu akusadingeki benze isethi eyinkimbinkimbi yamakhadi abhoboziwe womklamo ngamunye, benciphisa kakhulu isidingo sokufaka ngesandla nokwenza inqubo yokweluka indwangu ye-jacquard isebenze kahle futhi ingabizi.

Inqubo yokukhiqiza yendwangu ye-jacquard

Ukuklama & Ukuhlela

Lapho sithola idizayini yendwangu, sidinga kuqala ukuyiguqula ibe ifayela lokuklama i-jacquard loom yekhompyutha engayibona bese sihlela ifayela lohlelo ukuze silawule umsebenzi womshini we-jacquard wekhompyutha ukuze uqedele ukukhiqizwa kwendwangu.

Ukufanisa umbala

Ukuze ukhiqize indwangu njengoba yakhelwe, kufanele usebenzise izintambo zombala ezifanele ukukhiqiza indwangu.Ngakho umdwebi wethu wombala udinga ukukhetha izintambo ezithile ezihambisana nombala wokuklama ezinkulungwaneni zemicu abese eqhathanisa le mibala efanayo nombala wokuklama ngamunye ngamunye kuze kube yilapho kukhethwa imicu ewufanela kangcono umbala wokuklama ——Rekhoda inombolo ehambisanayo yentambo.Le nqubo idinga isineke nolwazi.

Ukulungiswa kwentambo

Ngokwenombolo yentambo enikezwe umenzi wombala, umphathi wethu we-warehouse angathola ngokushesha Intambo ehambisanayo.Uma inani lesitoko linganele, singaphinda sithenge ngokushesha noma senze ngendlela oyifisayo Intambo edingekayo.Ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izindwangu ezikhiqizwa ku-batch efanayo azinawo umehluko wombala.Lapho silungiselela Intambo, sikhetha Intambo eyenziwe ngeqoqo elifanayo lombala ngamunye.Uma inani lezintambo ku-batch linganele, sizophinda sithenge inqwaba Yentambo.Lapho indwangu ikhiqiza, sisebenzisa wonke amaqoqo asanda kuthengwa Wentambo, singahlanganisi amaqoqo amabili Entambo ukuze sikhiqize.

 Indwangu ye-jacquard eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka

Ukwaluka kwendwangu yeJacquard

Lapho zonke izintambo sezilungile, izintambo zizoxhuma emshinini we-jacquard wokukhiqiza, futhi izintambo zemibala ehlukene zizoxhunywa ngendlela ethile.Ngemuva kokungenisa ifayela lohlelo olusebenzayo, umshini we-jacquard wekhompyutha uzoqedela ukukhiqizwa kwendwangu eklanyelwe.

Ukwelashwa kwendwangu ye-Jacquard

Ngemva kokwelukwa kwendwangu, idinga ukuphathwa ngezindlela ezingokomzimba nezamakhemikhali ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukuthamba kwayo, ukumelana nemihuzuko, ukumelana namanzi, ukushesha kombala, nezinye izici zendwangu.

Ukuhlolwa kwe-Jacquard Fabric

Ukuhlolwa Kwendwangu YeJacquard Ngemva kokucubungula kwendwangu, zonke izinyathelo zokukhiqiza ziqedile.Kodwa uma indwangu idinga ukulethwa kumakhasimende, ukuhlolwa kokugcina kwendwangu kuyadingeka ukuze kuqinisekiswe:

  1. Indwangu flat ngaphandle creases.
  2. Indwangu ayikho i-weft oblique.
  3. umbala uyafana nowokuqala.
  4. Usayizi wephethini ulungile

Izici zendwangu ye-jacquard

Izinzuzo zendwangu ye-jacquard

1. Isitayela sendwangu ye-jacquard iyinoveli futhi inhle, futhi isibambo sayo asilingani;2. Izindwangu zeJacquard zicebile kakhulu ngemibala.Amaphethini ahlukene angalukwa ngokwezindwangu ezihlukahlukene zesisekelo, enze umehluko wemibala ehlukene.Wonke umuntu angathola izitayela nemiklamo ayintandokazi.3. Indwangu ye-Jacquard kulula ukuyinakekela, futhi ikhululekile kakhulu ukugqoka ekuphileni kwansuku zonke, futhi inezici zokukhanya, ukuthambile, nokuphefumula.4. Ngokungafani nemiklamo ephrintiwe negxiviziwe, amaphethini okuluka kwendwangu ye-jacquard ngeke afiphele noma ahlakaze izingubo zakho.

Ukungalungi kwendwangu ye-jacquard

1. Ngenxa yomklamo oyinkimbinkimbi wezinye izindwangu ze-jacquard, ukuminyana kwe-weft kwendwangu kuphezulu kakhulu, okuzonciphisa ukungena komoya kwendwangu.2. Ukuklama nokukhiqizwa kwezindwangu ze-jacquard kuyinkimbinkimbi, futhi intengo iphakeme kakhulu phakathi kwezindwangu zezinto ezifanayo.

Ukuhlukaniswa kwezindwangu ze-jacquard

 

I-Brocade

Ngumeluki waseShayina Ongaziwa.Isithombe ngegalari.Isixhumanisi

I-Brocade inephethini kuphela ohlangothini olulodwa, kanti olunye uhlangothi alunayo iphethini.I-brocade iguquguquka: ·1.Izindwangu zamatafula.I-Brocade inhle kakhulu kumasethi etafula, njengama-napkins, izindwangu zetafula, nezindwangu zetafula.I-Brocade ihlobisa kodwa iqinile futhi iyakwazi ukumelana nokusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke ·2.Izingubo.I-Brocade inhle kakhulu ekwenzeni izingubo, njengamajakhethi ama-trim noma izingubo zakusihlwa.Nakuba izindwangu ezisindayo zingenayo i-drape efana nezinye izindwangu ezingasindi, ukuqina kwakha i-silhouette ehlelekile.·3.Izesekeli.I-Brocade iphinde idume ngezesekeli zemfashini ezifana nezikhafu nezikhwama zezandla.Amaphethini amahle nezindwangu eziminyene zenza ukubukeka okukhangayo kwezingcezu zesitatimende.·4.Umhlobiso wasekhaya.Ama-brocade cade asephenduke isisekelo sokuhlobisa ikhaya ngemiklamo yawo ekhangayo.Ukuqina kwe-Brocade kuyenza ilungele i-upholstery nama-drapes.

 

提花面料-7 Ngu-CC BY-SA 3.0, Linkki

I-Brocatelle

 

I-Brocatelle ifana ne-Brocade ngokuthi inephethini ngakolunye uhlangothi, hhayi olunye.Le ndwangu ngokuvamile inomklamo oyinkimbinkimbi kune-Brocade, enendawo ehlukile ephakanyisiwe, ekhukhumele.I-Brocatelle ngokuvamile inzima futhi ihlala isikhathi eside kune-Brocade.I-Brocatelle ivamise ukusetshenziselwa izingubo zangokwezifiso nezithuthukile, njengamasudi, izingubo zokugqoka, njll.

提花面料-8 Ngu-CC0, IsixhumanisiDamask

Imiklamo ye-Damask igqama ngesisekelo nemibala yephethini ehlehlayo ngaphambili ukuya emuva.I-Damask ivamise ukuqhathanisa futhi yenziwe ngemicu ye-satin ukuze kube nokuzwakala kahle.Umkhiqizo wokugcina uyimpahla yendwangu yokunethezeka ebuyiselekayo eguquguqukayo.Indwangu yaseDamask ivame ukusetshenziswa futhi ikhiqizwa ku-Dress, Skirts, Fancy Jackets, kanye namajazi.

提花面料-9 Ngu-https://www.momu.be/collectie/studiecollectie.html / Isithombe ngu-Stany Dederen, CC BY-SA 4.0, Isixhumanisi

 

I-Matelassé

I-Matelassé (eyaziwa nangokuthi indwangu ephindwe kabili) iyindlela yokweluka ephefumulelwe isiFulentshi enikeza indwangu ukubukeka kwe-quilted noma okuhlanganisiwe.Izindwangu eziningi ezenziwe nge-quilt zingabonakala ku-loom ye-jacquard futhi zenzelwe ukulingisa isitayela sokuthunga ngesandla noma ukuthunga.Izindwangu ze-Matelassé zifanele izembozo zokuhlobisa, imicamelo yokujikijela, izingubo zokulala, izembozo zequilt, ama-duvets, nama-pillowcase.Ibuye isetshenziswe kakhulu emibhedeni emibhedeni nasezindaweni zokulala zezingane.

 

 

 

提花面料-10 Ngu < CC0, Link

I-tapestry

Ngamagama anamuhla, "I-Tapestry" ibhekisela endwangu elukwe ku-jacquard loom ukulingisa ama-tapestries omlando."I-Tapestry" yigama elingacacile, kodwa lichaza indwangu esindayo ene-weave enemibala eminingi eyinkimbinkimbi.I-Tapestry nayo inombala ophambene ngemuva (isibonelo, indwangu enamaqabunga aluhlaza emhlabathini obomvu izoba neqabunga elibomvu emuva emhlabathini oluhlaza) kodwa ishubile, iqinile, futhi inzima kunedamaski.I-tapestry ivamise ukulukwa ngentambo ewugqinsi kune-Brocade noma i-Damask.I-Tapestry yokuhlobisa ikhaya: usofa, umcamelo, nendwangu yezihlalo.

 

 

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I-Cloque

Indwangu ye-Cloque inephethini ye-weave ephakanyisiwe kanye nokubukeka okucwebezelayo noma okucwebezelayo.Ingaphezulu lakhiwe ngezibalo ezincane eziphakanyiswe ngokungavamile ezakhiwe isakhiwo sokuluka.Le ndwangu ye-jacquard yenziwe ngokuhlukile kunezinye izindwangu ze-jacquard ngoba yenziwa ngenqubo yokuncipha.Imicu yemvelo esendwangu iyashwabana ngesikhathi sokukhiqiza, okubangela ukuthi impahla imbozwe ngamaqhuqhuva anjengamabhamuza.Izingubo ze-cloque nezingubo zikanokusho ezivame ukusetshenziselwa imicimbi nemicimbi ehlukahlukene ziklanywe ngale ndwangu futhi zihlelekile futhi zinhle kakhulu.Yinhle futhi iveza ubunkimbinkimbi okungekho okunye okungafaniswa nakho.


Isikhathi sokuthumela: Feb-17-2023